The Smoke That Thunders

Today I saw the most beautiful thing I think I’ve ever seen. I’ve been to Victoria Falls before, in fact it was 6 years ago today I was there, but today I got to the perfect spot at the exact right time, place, wind, mist, rainbow and everything. The picture above, while not possibly justified […]

Gorillas in the Mist

As Charles Dickens once wrote, “It was the best of times, it was the worst of times.” I think that aptly describes my experience tracking the Susa silverback gorillas in Parc National des Volcans in Northern Rwanda. It was great fun and it was miserable. It was memorable and there’s much I’d like to forget. […]

There Is No Joy In Juba

You’ve probably never heard of Juba, Southern Sudan. You were also probably unaware that Southern Sudan is separately governed than Sudan and that they will most likely become an independent country within the next year or so. Believe me, your life will continue unaffected for you not knowing this information. I can’t imagine that if […]

Paradise of Sorts in Pointe-Noire

Sometimes you discover the best places by accident when you are traveling especially in really off the beaten path places. For instance, my original plan was to fly from Gabon to Brazzaville where I would take the boat to Kinshasa and go from there. However, such is life in Africa-there were no flights because Air […]

Carthage, Sidi Bou Said and More Tunis

The name of once-mighty Carthage is a name like many other great ancient cities. It inspires legends, poets and envy. Hannibal lived in Carthage-the military genius who the Romans were only able to beat because they ensured they never had to fight him. Virgil wrote his Aeneid about the tragic romance between Carthaginian Dido and […]

First Full Day in Tunisia

After weeks of seemingly no sleep, a change in plans from Algeria to Tunisia and a quick stop off in London to visit my friend Mike, I arrived in Tunis, Tunisia two nights ago after a long and grueling day of flying sitting next to more screaming babies than one could possibly have nightmares about. […]

Reflections on West Africa

There is no place I have been, no place in the world like West Africa. The energy, beauty, poverty and insanity are unmatched and hard to get your hands around. The area of West Africa is vast and huge and can be a daunting place to visit let alone simply find on a map. It […]

Guinea-Bissau

Guinea-Bissau is the red headed stepchild of West Africa. Most people have never even heard of it, it doesn’t have much representation abroad including in the United States and it is difficult to get there and to get out. That said, it is an enticing place to visit in the dry season (right now) with […]

Death in Maputo Mozambique

We arrived in Maputo, Mozambique with no expectations. We decided to visit Mozambique on a whim because Mike and I were in nearby Nelspruit, South Africa after a four-day safari in Kruger Park. It was so close that we couldn’t pass up the opportunity which would turn into something we’d never forget.

Aït Benhaddou

Aït Benhaddou is a fortified city along the former caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakech in present-day Morocco. It is situated in Souss-Massa-Draâ on a hill along the Ouarzazate River and has some beautiful examples of kasbahs. Most of the town’s inhabitants now live in a more modern village at the other side of […]

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